BAKERSFIELD OR BUST

Words & Photos by Linda Wilsmore

Following an invitation to Ace Cafe London, back in October, Mark and I went to California as guests of the Central Coast Classic Motorcycle Club’s inaugural rally and swap meet, held in and around the area of San Luis Obispo.

Prior to going, we decided to extend our stay in California, take in the sights, visit a few iconic landmarks, as well as satisfying a long-held ambition to attend the annual Hot Rod Reunion in Bakersfield.  When booking the trip, we plumbed for an economy rental car, but on arriving there, Mark spotted a new V8 SS Camaro, and the temptation to get to grips with some modern American muscle, having driven around in a 67 SS Chevelle for over 20 years, simply became overwhelming!

Making an appearance as a concept at the Detroit Motor Show in January 2007, it’s a thoroughly modern interpretation of the 1969 model.  Automatic with a 6.2 litre V8, it makes 400hp and features GM’s Active Fuel Management Cylinder deactivation.  Suffice to say that because of the recession, not many Americans have bought one, so it created considerable interest wherever we stopped.  Although not built for mountain passes, something we love to ride or drive, it handled very well on the twisties.  The only downside for the driver being very poor visibility, particularly on the right-handers.

We travelled south along the Pacific Coast Highway hugging the famous beach road as far as Dana Point, stopping to paddle in the Pacific at Malibu.  Not being sunbathers, it was the first time we had even ventured onto a beach, despite visiting California a couple of times before.  The beaches were devoid of life, save for a few surfers, which is not surprising once you have read the rules and regulations governing what you can’t do on them, none of which is well signposted for visitors from overseas (I had to stand in a flower bed to read them on the side of a toilet block) - No Smoking, No Alcohol, No Dogs, etc, which whilst I understand the intent that the beaches are not to be littered with garbage, it also precludes any idea of romantic picnic with wine!

An afternoon and evening was spent in Santa Monica, and here we were nearly knobbled for smoking!  A “street marshal” approached us to tell us that smoking on this particular street was not allowed at all.  When I asked where the signs were, he pointed high above our heads to a lamp post – silly me, I knew I should have walked along looking skywards!  In other streets you are not allowed to smoke within 20 feet of entryways and windows of any public building, on any beach or park, on the Third Street Promenade (which is where we were stopped), any outdoor dining area, bus stop, ATM line or other service area, or Farmers Market.  For those not familiar with Farmers Markets, a big element is street BBQ’s with their aromas and lots of smoke!

In fact the rules on smoking are very confusing and change from one town to the next, and sometimes even in the same area.  For instance at Starbucks It’s a big “no no” to smoke outside whilst enjoying a coffee, yet two of the hotels in other areas we stayed even provided books of matches, along with the ashtray!

Leaving the coastal roads, we continued our journey through the Elsinore Mountains, the Lake View Mountains, San Bernadino National Forest, and up into the Santa Rosa and San Jacinto Mountains, the latter being a National Monument to its once Indian Reservation.  From there we drove through the Palm Desert and into the Pinto Mountains, eventually getting onto “old” Route 66 at Amboy and Roy’s Diner, an iconic landmark in the Mojave Desert, and which has often been used as a  movie location (The Hitcher in the 80s), as well as in adverts. 

Although the diner is no longer a functioning cafe, it has been basically preserved and was open selling cold bottled water and Coke from a cool-box, as well as a few souvenirs, and there was a fashion photo shoot taking place at the time of our visit.  Striking up a conversation with the young guy at the counter who helps keep it open for the owner, it would seem that there could be plans in the pipeline to reopen and restore the site to its former glory.  This would take a huge leap of faith, as Amboy today is a ghost town.  My own Camaro photo shoot was a must under the famous sign that was created in 1959.

Next stop west along the 66 was Bagdad Cafe in Newberry Springs (formerly the Sidewinder Cafe), made famous by the 1987 film of the same name. The Bagdad Cafe existed in the 60s in the town of Bagdad but the original cafe and the town have long since vanished. After the film came out, it became a tourist attraction and changed its name.

When we arrived mid-evening and after dark it looked closed, chairs were on tables and someone sweeping up.  We started to pull away, when a lady appeared from inside the cafe shouting and waving. We guessed they wanted the dollar, so we parked and went inside.  They were indeed about to close, but made us feel very welcome, gave us a menu, and cooked us a meal. A very pleasant hour or so was spent chatting and hanging with the staff, the obligatory photo and signing of tee shirt to add to the collection that adorned the cafe’s walls.

That night we stayed in a motel in Barstow, not a very salubrious town, but on the way to where we wanted to go.  Mark checked in while I waited in the car.  No sooner had we settled in, when the phone rang and a silky voice said “Is that Mark”.  Being very cautious he replied “What room number do you want”, and again they said, “I’m looking for Mark Wilsmore”.  He put the phone down.  The receptionist, who had not seen me in the car, appeared to be involved in criminal activity whose attention was focused on men travelling alone.

The culmination of the trip was the annual Hot Rod Reunion in Bakersfield at the Famoso Raceway, organised by the NHRA.  It was simply Hot Rod Heaven, with 3 days of non-stop drag racing thrills, a swap meet, vendors galore, and so many fantastic cars, it was difficult to decide which way to point the camera, and we even got to meet drag racing legend, “Big Daddy” Don Garlits!